fujitsu reverse cycle air conditioner manual

The company has offices world-wide.Alan Carson is a past president of ASHI, the American Society of Home Inspectors. Carson Dunlop Associates' provides extensive home inspection education and report writing material. The text is intended as a reference guide to help building owners operate and maintain their home effectively. Field inspection worksheets are included at the back of the volume. Special Offer: For a 10% discount on any number of copies of the Home Reference Book purchased as a single order. InspectAPedia.com editor Daniel Friedman is a contributing author. Or choose the The HOME REFERENCE eBook for PCs, Macs, Kindle, iPad, iPhone, or Android Smart Phones. Special Offer: For a 5% discount on any number of copies of the Home Reference eBook purchased as a single order. InspectAPedia.com editor Daniel Friedman is a contributing author. Before using this product, read these instructions THIS PRODUCT MUST ONLY BE INSTALLED OR SERVICED BY QUALIFIED PERSONNEL. Incorrect operation due to failure to follow the instructions may cause harm or damage, the seriousness of which is classified as follows: WARNING This mark warns of death or serious injury. CAUTION This mark warns of injury or damage to property. This mark denotes an action that is PROHIBITED. This mark denotes an action that is COMPUL Fujitsu - Air Conditioners. Unfortunately, the Fujitsu remote controller we have doesn't have IR. It does have serial though. When I mentioned I was thinking about how to control it via my phone, my wife actually thought it was a good idea, so I made a start before she changed her mind. Building on my Garage Door opening project, I would like to use an ESP8266, talking MQTT to homeassistant.io. Everything will be over TLSv1.2, and I'll continue work on the web configuration interface. First step: Work out how this thing comminucates with the outside unit.

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Because the pres- sure of R410A refrigerant is approximately 1.6 times higher than the R22, failure to use dedicated piping material or improper installation can cause rupture or injury. Afterwards, unit operation. Press the TIMER MODE (CLOCK ADJUST) button for 2 seconds or more. Press the SET TIME ( Operation lamp Air conditioner ON: Lit brightly Air conditioner OFF: Not lit To set the operation mode Operation mode setting Press the MODE button to set the operation mode. Indoor unit Press the ECONOMY button for more than 2 seconds to select whether the room temperature is detected at the indoor unit or the remote controller. The timer operates and air conditioner operation stops after the set time has passed. The timer can be set up to 24 hours in advance. ON timer (See page 8.) Use this timer function to start air conditioner operation. Operating time 7:00-18:00 timer starts automatically.To Use the ECONOMY Operation Press the ECONOMY button. The ECONOMY display will light. ECONOMY operation begins. To Stop the ECONOMY Operation Press the ECONOMY button again. The ECONOMY display will go out. Normal operation begins. In the event of a malfunction (burning smell, etc.), immediately stop operation, turn off the electrical WARNING.Merely turning off the unit’s power switch will not completely disconnect the unit from the power source. From our first meeting with Adam we found him to be respectful, honest, approachable and very professional.Please copy and paste the embed code again. We have no relationship with advertisers, products, or services discussed at this website. Here we provide free downloadable copies of installation and service manuals for heating, heat pump, and air conditioning equipment, or contact information for the manufacturers who can provide that information for nearly all major brands of HVAC equipment. We also provide links to the manufacturer's current model lists and literature. Singapore Fujitsu: Fujitsu General (Asia) Pte. Ltd., Tel.

The shortest spacing was around 2ms (some longer; some shorter) The RX pin is idle low, and there is always a high transition to represent the start bit There seems to be a low transition to represent a stop bit There is 9 bits between the start and stop bit (except for the last set) It's starting to look like a straight up serial transmission, except the idle state, start and stop bits are inverted, so unfortunately the built in serial protocol decoder wouldn't read it. Next I need to find the bits that change between each state. The power bit was pretty obvious: there was only one bit that was different when the power was off - the 68th bit. Looking at the rest of that byte, there was a pattern developing in the next 3 bits - they seemed to change when the settings changed. Taking LSB first, Fan only mode is represented by 0x01, Humidity mode (Yeah - I don't know what that is either) is 0x02, Cool mode is 0x03, Heat mode is 0x04 and Auto mode is 0x05. The next three bits represent the fan speed: Auto 0x00, Speed 2: 0x02, Speed 3: 0x03, Speed 4: 0x04. But was was the ninth bit. Having a think about serial, it's could a parity bit. By summing the number of bits, it became pretty obvious it was odd parity. I checked this against the other bytes, and it checked out - now we are getting somewhere. Looking at the next byte, it was clear it was changing with the temperature. I purposely looked at the lowest possible setting for the temperature (15deg) and the highest (30deg) and it was here I was lead down the garden path a little. Reading up on other people's efforts at reverse engineering air conditioner units, this is a fairly common range. Many of the IR transmitters represent this as a 4 bit number, where 0x0 is 15 and 0xF 30. Unfortunately, I couldn't for the life of me work out how that mapped to the numbers I was seeing. It turns out, this system uses a 5 bit number - feasibly being able to represent 0 - 31 degrees.

While I think the comms protocol is different, there is a suggested schematic for a Dual Comparator Serial Bus transceiver that looks like it is exactly what we need. I have ordered some LM393s - I'll build the circuit one they arrive. In the mean time, I'll pull the second unit I have out and see if I can get it running in slave mode. That was I can listen to it's TX pin, and see if I can work out what it says. I've been busy working on temperature controller for fridges to help make beer and salami. Why is this relevant? As a thought experiment (maybe a silly one - I already knew the answer), I tried to fit the pattern into something that looked like UART. UPDATE: Fun fact: 0x0A is traditionally a line-feed character. Not sure what to do with that information yet. I'm not sure yet. Does the outdoor unit spit numbers at the controller, then yield the line waiting for a command. Or does the controller ask the outdoor unit for it settings. How does a slave fit in to this? On my day off, I took the unit of the wall, got me some coffee and setup shop in the hallway, oscilloscope in hand. I must admit, I'm still getting used to using the oscilloscope and I'm sure there is a far better way to do what I'm trying to do, but I found that if I probe the RX pin on the CPU, with the 'scope set to single trigger mode and keep hitting the start button, I'd eventually align the waveform at the start of the cycle. After that I used the onscreen rulers to work out the gaps between the pulses. I then wrote them down in to this spreadsheet. I'd change a setting, take a new set of readings, and repeat until I had covered enough states that I could get a complete picture of what was going on. Looking at the data, I could start to see some patterns.

It looks like I'll need some sort of tri-state buffer, so I can set the line to high-impedance after I've sent the preamble. I was curious to see if I could get any other clues to the protocol, so I started poking around the big chip on the PCB. One of the pins receives the same signal the signal line does, except it's inveted and 0-5V. That sounds like a serial receive line to me. Pin 76 is labelled TXD0, which I'm guessing is the transmit line. This should make decoding stuff way easier, because I'll be able to see what is actually being transmitted and received separately. Win! I'm going to try and trace out the front-end to this - so far I see a NJM2904 (an op-amp) is on the path - my guess is that is the thing inverting the signal and driving it to 12V. Tracing this circuit out should allow me to build a compatible circuit from my microcontroller. I get it on my bench, and test out my theory - if I'm right, it should boot up and start sending commands when the buttons are pressed. The Oscilloscope was no use either - I just saw a constant 12V on the signal wire. Hmmm. Looks like I'll have to pull off the real wall unit. Using some wire and alligator clips, I extended the wires so I could reach them with the scope. This time I got somewhere - I could see a signal. The pulse width is around 1.04ms, going from 12V to 0V. Weird. I go distracted for a while trying to decode the protocol - is there start bits and stop bits. What about a parity bit. I knocked together a quick D3 script (I'm a web developer, remember - I use web technology for a lot of this stuff because that is what I'm used to) to display the wave form. First, I wrote a ruby script that created a CSV file of just the transitions. There are two entries for each transition - a 0V and 12V value - so the graph ends up looking like a binary stream. I then wrote another script that aligned the stream so each pulse was exactly 1.04, and each pulse hight was 12V or 0v.

There is four unknown bytes, and one block that seems to be make up of 5 bytes. My guess is one of the unknown bytes is reserved for errors, and one is a serial number of some sort. I have no clue what the other two could be for, and I'm quite confused by the last, short byte. But this is definitely progress. I did a final check the get some timing on what is transmitted, and there seems to be three windows of roughly 212ms each. The first from the outdoor unit, the second transmitted by the remote control, and I'm guessing the third is for a slave unit. To build a test harness, I'll need to bit-bang the data for 212ms, then set the line to high impedance for 424ms. This will hopefully allow me to get the remote control to work on my bench. Once I can get the remote to work, I can analyse what it is doing. Next, I'll simulate that as well, then set the remote to slave mode and work out that part of the protocol. Once I have the three parts of the protocol nutted out, I can just simulate the outdoor unit, connect the spare remote controller as master, and the microcontroller will become the slave. Easy! And this is signal that comes from the outdoor unit. I'm not sure if I stuffed up my reading the last time, but it looks like the pulse width is 2ms. Really, I needed to replay this and see if I could get my test unit to initialise. I thought about using an Ardiuno, so I googled bit banging serial to see the best way to do it. I had literally just cleaned up my workbench and found a FTDI module. Perfect! I knocked up a little circuit that drove a transistor from 0V to 12V, and adapted the code from the article to control the FTDI modules CTS line. I had to reduce the sleep time to 1.8ms to adjust for kernel context switches (I'm guessing) while talking to the adapter. I got it pretty close to 2ms though. My guess? This communication protocol works on one-wire - I'm not releasing the line, so the remote never gets a chance to send a response.

Interestingly, in the documentation for their latest units: It mentions the interface to Fujitsu heaters is through a Echelon U10 interface, which is LONWorks. I have an RS485 adapter too, so I could also see if that picks up anything on the remote connection. How much was it and where did you get yours? Got it up and running in no time! Did you get a modbus shield for the raspberry pi.Can you share the code you are using to talk to the modbus interface. Regards Glen Ogilvie I want to control the heaters installed at our school from an arduino. Can you confirm that it is LIN protocol. I have ordered a MCP2025 to test it with an arduino. We will see what the results will be I will try and find an interface and see if that does the trick IR device part number is UTY-LRH. The unit might be controlled by multiple remote controls- wired and IR on the same wire. I wished to control my office aircon through IR technology but I noticed it's actually using a wired remote control. Have you succeeded? Would like to hear from you soon if you have figured it out. Any new clue about protocol involved in communication. Thank for your time publishing the project here. I did discover a KNX-based interface, but the costs involved there are prohibitive.I'd like to implement the protocol in a raspberry with a LCD for controlling the AC.I think I saw that article right at the beginning, but now I know more, it may make more sense. Thanks for all your notes. They are great I think that after the discovery of the LG aircon project this is outdated (this my comment is dated 2017!!) I really like your project and I think I have skills to help you.

Finally, I scaled everything so the pulse width was 1, as this made reading the graphs easier. I ended up with some pretty graphs like this: There was still a problem though - I didn't have a baseline for the communications. I knew that the control unit didn't send any data unless it was connected to the outside unit. I also knew that changing the temperature changed some of the bits in the data stream, so clearly there was some half-duplex serial communication going on. I needed to find out what the outdoor unit sent to initialise the control unit. The first issue: I had no idea what the model number was - it's not written on the unit, nor on the instruction manual. So I just googled for Fujitsu airconditioner remote, hit image results and looked for one that looked the same. While I waited for it to arrive, I continued googling to find as much info as I could about it. Thankfully, a number of airconditioning repair places have their installation manuals online. My first hypothesis was the remote unit worked a lot like an IR remote - every button press sent the complete state to the outdoor unit. If this was the case, it should just be a matter of hooking up a DSO (I have the LabNation SmartScope ), copying the signal and replaying it via a microcontroller. While I could pull the one off the wall, I patiently waited for my test unit to arrive. At least it is a big list for command in the bottom of the user manual pdf We don't need it, sorry I just installed that gateway in my home and works fine. Anyway, you should check the compatibility between your indoor unit and the gateway. If you still want to reverse engineer the protocol, check out the manuals of the device, they provide the register information, not sure if it will be in the same order, but at least you will know which information is available on the bus. Also note that based on the manuals it seems there are at least two different variants to the Fujitsu bus (they call them type A and type B).

I was already using modbus for another device at home, but it seems they have other connectivity options That said, I've started reading up on all this again, and have ordered some parts today, so hopefully I can find some time this weekend to look again. Too much bucks to upgrade all my devices.If the protocol would be the same, from your dumps we have half message. It seems is missing the CRC. I've ordered the LM393 comparators, and I'll hack together a circuit. Then I think I can try and adapt that code (though, I think it is different). Great find! So if we have such checksum may be confused with the start of another packet (that's why I asked you if you have a longer waveform). I already own some opto. There is no reason that this could not be done via serial with a Pro mini etc but it will not work with an ESP8266 as is. The ESP8266 will not allow for serial speeds low enough. Why esp8266 wouldn't be able to work at such baud rate (104bps). Maybe it trigger the watchdog? But with software serial? Maybe some delay may help Therefore I see this very difficult to manage it with the ESP8266. I realized cause I saw the EE:EE error message in the screen so there should be a proprietary protocol that also can control the remote MCU. I also see the remote has Zones, which makes me think that there is a paring between the two devices.I have a second head unit, so I'm going to wire it up over the weekend as a slave and see if I can sniff what it sends. Most of the work is done. But I think the control bus that connects the remote control to the indoor unit is different from the one that connects the indoor unit to the outdoor unit. In other words, we still unable to directly control the outdoor unit. I am investigating on my own. Greetings. I may have some more time shortly to start looking again, and I've made some additional discoveries that are interesting. Not sure of cost at the moment.